Xinjiang (新疆) China
Xinjiang, officially known as the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, is an autonomous region located in the North West of China. The region is the main home of China's ethnic Uyghur population, is the largest province in China (1/6 of China’s total area), and shares borders with Russia, Mongolia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, and the disputed Kashmir territory, effectively making Xinjiang a strategic gateway to Central Asia and South Asia.
Since Xinjiang's incorporation into China, the region has had a particularly turbulent history, and has been in the news for all the wrong reasons. Putting the negative publicity aside, travel provides one the opportunity to explore and experience a culturally unique area in China, one that is predominantly Turkic-speaking and one where Islam is the main and dominant religion.
Xinjiang is a mosaic of different cultures, with Uyghurs, Kazakhs, and Han Chinese being the largest ethnic groups in the region. Xinjiang is one area where Han Chinese are a minority.
Uyghurs are the largest ethnic group in the region and make up 40-50% (85% in 1949)of the population in the region. The vast majority of Uyghurs are Muslims. Han Chinese are the second largest ethnic group in the region and make up 30-40% of the population in the region. When Xinjiang was formally incorporated into China in 1949, many Han Chinese were encouraged by the government to migrate to Xinjiang in search of better economic opportunities. Kazakhs are the third largest ethnic group in the region and make up 6-10% of the population in the region. [Sources: Wikivoyage, etc]
We were a 13-member group travelling in September 2024 and covered mostly the northern and south-eastern parts of Xinjiang over 13 days. Our entry point was Urumqi via Beijing and we departed from Kashgar to Beijing. Due to the vast region, we took 4 domestic flights (Urumqi-Kanas; Kanas-Urumqi; Turpan-Kuqa; Kuqa-Kashgar) in order to minimise the road trips.
Key areas visited
Kanas Scenic Area & Hemu Village
Turpan: The Flaming Mountain, Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Cave, Mazar Village, Ruins of Gaochang, Ruins of Jioahe, Karez Irrigation System, Minaret
Kuqa (Kucha): Grand Kucha Mosque, Kucha Royal Palace
Aksu: Kizil Thousand Buddha Caves, Tianshan Grand Canyon
Tashkurgan: Karakorum Highway (Kashgar to Tashkurgan), Karakul Lake, White Sand Lake, Stone Castle
Kashgar: Old Town, Id Kah Mosque, Tomb of Fragrant Concubine (Xiang Fei Park), Kashgar Sunday Livestock Market.
Kanas Scenic Area & Hemu Village
Kanas literally means “a beautiful and mysterious lake” in Mongolian. Located in the north of Burqin, Altay Prefecture, Northern Xinjiang, near the border area with Mongolia, Russia and Kazakhstan, Kanas is a huge natural scenic area, which mainly consists of three big parts - Kanas Lake, Hemu Village and Baihaba Village.
Kanas Lake is a green crescent moon-shaped alpine freshwater lake sitting at an elevation of 1,374 meters in the middle part of Altai Mountain. It is the center and biggest highlight that is deemed one of the most beautiful lakes in China. The Fish Watching Pavilion, located 1,100 steps above the mountain, provides the best panoramic view of the lake.
At about 11km south of Kanas Lake, there are beautiful Wolong Bay (Dragon Crouching Bay), Fairy Bay and Moon Bay, all within 5km distance.
Turpan
The Turpan Depression is the lowest point in China and second lowest on Earth (after the Dead Sea) at 154 meters below sea level. It is very dry and sometimes very hot, well into the 40's Degree Centigrade. The local people have developed karez, an irrigation system composed of wells connected by underground channels, to counter the heat and drought of the place. No place in China is hotter than Flaming Mountain in Turpan, a mountain made famous by the classic Chinese mythological novel, Journey to the West. Turpan is famous for their grapes, grown primarily for raisins but also wine.
Our visit to Turpan include the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves, ruins of Gaochang ancient city, ruins of Jiaohe ancient city, the Karez Irrigation System, Emin Minaret, and the quaint Mazar Village in the Tuyuk Valley, an ancient Uygher oasis-village with a history of more than 2600 years where we had lunch in a local family home.
Kuqa (Kucha) Historical Sites
Highlights of our visit: 1) Grand Kucha Mosque is the only mosque in China that preserved the Shariah Court and is the second largest mosque in Xinjiang. 2) The Kucha Royal Palace is a reconstruction at the original site in 2004 by the government according to the memories of the last (12th) Uyghur Prince Dawti Mahsuri. The original palace built in 1759 by Emperor Qianlong was destroyed by Kuomintang in 1937. 3) A walk thru the old town of Kuqa.
Aksu
The Kizil Thousand Buddha Caves, believed to be the earliest large-scale Buddhist cave complex in China. (2 hours drive from Kuqa)
The Tianshan Grand Canyon is a geological wonder of Aksu with its unique landscape with high cliffs and towering peaks of various shapes and colours.
Karakorum Highway from Kashgar to Taskurgan
Our only longest drive in this trip which is a scenic 7-hour journey from Kashgar, which we flew in from Kuqa, to Tashkurgan, driving on the famous Karakoram Highway (KKH). The Karakoram Highway aka the China–Pakistan Friendship Highway, is a 1,300 km highway that connects Pakistan to Kashgar in Western China’s Xinjiang region. The Chinese portion is known as China National Highway 314. The highway is a popular tourist attraction and is one of the highest paved roads in the world, reaching a peak of 4714m, crossing the Pamir Plateau which is known as the “roof of the world”, and cutting thru some of the most astounding rock faces on earth. There are two magnificent lakes with stunning views, Karakul Lake and White Sand Lake.
Karakul Lake is located at an altitude of 3,600 m, it is the highest lake of the Pamir plateau, near the junction of the Pamir, Tian Shan and Kunlun mountain ranges. Surrounded by mountains which remain snow-covered throughout the year, the three highest peaks visible from the lake are the Muztagh Ata (7,546 m), Kongur Tagh (7,649 m) and Kongur Tiube (7,530 m). The meltwater from the nearby Muztagh Ata glaciers profoundly influences the lake water and sediment chemistry.
Tashkurgan
A small town of mainly ethnic Tajiks. The ruins of the historical Stone City is the only notable tourist spot.
Kashgar
Kashgar is an old city, a stopover on the ancient Silk Road, with its history stretching over 2,000 years. The city is situated at the western end of the Tarim Basin in a fertile oasis watered by the Kashgar River and by several springs, allowing corn, rice, wheat and cotton, as well as melons, grapes, apricots, peaches and cherries to grow. Various handicrafts such as cotton and silk textiles, leatherwear and pottery are produced in the city and its suburbs.
An interesting walk thru the restored colourful and artsy Old Town where the historic Id Kah Mosque is also located. A great place to shop for fresh and dried fruits, souvenirs, and handicrafts.
Kashgar’s livestock Sunday Market, is reputed to be one of the largest and most colourful markets in the region.
The other popular sightseeing spot is the mausoleum commonly known as Tomb of Fragrant Concubine, a Uygher princess who became the consort of Emperor Qianlong. The location is today known as the Fei Xiang Park.
Our tour ended with a grand farewell banquet with private Muqam performance of traditional Uygher music and dances.
Post Trip Comments
Depending on individual interests, in my case, I would drop the visits to the Buddha Caves, the ruins of the ancient cities (Gaochang and Jiaohe), perhaps just one of each. In place of these places, I would rather visit Urumqi and other places of interest.
It is definitely a good idea to use domestic flights to save the long distance road trips as the region is just too big.
Private transport is important for the Kanas Scenic Area as the public shuttle buses are very crowded with local tourists from all over China.
There is little to see in Tashkurgan but the 300km ride from Kashgar to Tashkurgan on the Karakoram Highway (KKH) was awesome. The magnificent lakes and mountains are very picturesque.